Everything You Need to Know About Permanent Makeup

My combined morning skincare and makeup routine eats up an hour of my life every morning—which is why the allure of permanent makeup is tempting. Not having to bounce my beauty blender on my dark circles, put on lip gloss, or re-do my eyeliner eleven billion times would make time for at least three extra cups of coffee in the morning (so necessary). Here's the thing: My pain tolerance is so low that I've cried while getting my teeth cleaned (I still blame the hygienist and not the fact that I hadn't flossed in two months). As for commitment? I can't even make up my mind about I want to have for breakfast in the morning.

Exactly how painful and permanent is permanent makeup, anyway?

I asked Dr. Jackie David—the microblading and permanent makeup expert at NYC's Jackie David Skincare—to breakdown the good, the bad, and the ugly about the four most requested permanent makeup services: Permanent eyebrows, permanent eyeliner, lip blushing, and permanent concealer.

"Microblading involves using a handheld, manual tool—either a blade or a rotary pen with different configurations of needles depending on what the client is going for," explains David. "If they want a soft, powdery brow then I like to use the rotary pen with the appropriate configuration of needles to deposit pigment, whereas using a blade creates sharper, more angular strokes. With the blade, you create slices in the skin, and in the slices you put the pigment on top and rub it in and let it sit. From start to finish, I like to give myself 1.5 hours."

Climax will leave you ironically dissatisfied

Have you ever been staggeringly drunk at a house party that was so noisy you thought you might throw up, and so out of control someone was literally peeing on the floor? Have you ever descended, like Dante, to the very centre of Hell? If you’ve never done either and are wondering what it might be like, Gaspar Noé’s newest should set you crooked.

First, a word on the title. Noé’s last film, 2015’s Love, was two-and-a-quarter hours that had critics pondering the line between art and pornography, and whether he’d blurred it, erased it, crossed it or strangled his audience with it. So it should be stressed that Climax does not contain an onscreen climax, in either the sexual or narrative sense.

It opens with documentary-style footage of a bunch of French dancers discussing their craft. We get to watch it on an old-style TV screen, flanked left and right by the kind of books and VHS tapes that a certain kind of poseur would have purposefully stocked his shelves with in university in the early 1980s; Kafka, Nietzche, Wilde, Bunuel and a well-worn copy of Suspiria.

Noé, who graduated from Louis Lumière College in Paris in the early 1980s, then presents the dancers performing in a 10-minute single-take shot that is the highlight of the film, the camera swooping up over their heads and back to the floor as they writhe and shimmy. And then they break apart into little groups to drink and smoke and discuss their sex lives. Climax is set in 1996, which means no one is texting. For this alone, I award one star.

Carcinogens in your cosmetics? Welcome to Brexit Britain

How would you feel about putting a lovely dollop of formaldehyde on your nails? No? Well, perhaps I could interest you in a sprinkling of asbestos for your skin? Hmm, tricky customer, eh? OK, surely you couldn’t object to some coal tar on your eyelids, to really make them pop. Oh, come on, who wouldn’t risk a little light cancer for a really banging shade of eyeshadow? You wouldn’t? Too bad. In our brave new Brexit world, where EU legislation is no longer in force, and we are forced to accept trade deals on Trump’s terms, expect all these known carcinogens and more to be appearing on a beauty shelf near you.

Since 2007 UK consumers have been protected by the EU’s "precautionary principle". Essentially, the EU doesn’t think that chemicals that have been linked to cancer and birth defects belong in cosmetics, and so they are banned from use in consumer products. And who could argue with that?

Well, the US, actually, where a chemical is only banned if it poses an "unreasonable risk". Whereas in the EU there is no "safe" level of exposure to a proven carcinogen, the US system, is "steeped in quantitative risk assessment", says Mike Belliveau, executive director at the Environmental Health Strategy Center.

The result is a major disparity in the level of consumer protection from hazardous chemicals. The EU bans 1,328 chemicals from use in cosmetics – including formaldehyde, asbestos and coal tar – that are known or suspected to cause cancer, genetic mutation, reproductive harm or birth defects. The US Food & Drugs Administration (FDA), by comparison, has only banned or restricted 11.

Of course you could argue that adults can make their own choices about what to use on their own bodies. If I want to put asbestos on my face, then the American Dream says that I should be free to do so. Down with the nanny state!

The thing is that only works if consumers are able to make meaningful choices, based on adequate information. And in the US, they are not, thanks to the handy "fragrance loophole". This legislation, intended as a way of protecting trade secrets, in fact means that hundreds of chemicals linked to cancer, birth defects and hormone disruption can be smuggled into all sorts of personal care products under the catch-all, innocent-sounding "fragrance".

And don’t think you can bypass these chemicals by simply buying "fragrance-free" products: the FDA does not regulate the terms "fragrance free" or "unscented" and a recent study found that 45% of products marketed as "fragrance free" in the US were in fact not fragrance free at all.

The multibillion-dollar US fragrance and cosmetics industry hit back at such concerns, saying that it tests its products for safety. But those studies have never been published in peer-reviewed scientific journals, and the industry refuses to publicly release the safety data. So we just have to take an industry that has spent millions of dollars lobbying against more transparent labelling requirements on trust. Rather than, as in the EU, having a right to know what it is we’re putting on our bodies.

But this right is at risk if we lose access to EU data – a major concern given how reliant we have been historically on other EU countries doing chemicals testing for us. Even more worrying, our government has made no commitment to keep aligned with EU chemical rules, leaving us at risk of becoming a dumping ground for hazardous chemicals – a future that was heralded last month by a civil servant who explained that the UK would consider EU decisions, but also "look at what the US does". Welcome to Brexit Britain, where the chicken is chlorinated, and the cosmetics could be carcinogenic.

How to make your makeup last all day

Summer has well and truly arrived and you know what that means. Long, hot days followed by sizzling nights, sunshine, laughter and plenty of good times. Oh - and makeup that slides right off your face the moment you put it on. At least that's how it used to be, but follow the handy tips and tricks below and that particular problem will be nothing but a bad memory.

We love the summer season but the steamy weather can wreak havoc with our beauty routines. It needn't though, says skincare guru and founder of Paula's Choice Paula Begoun. In fact, Paula says as long you do the following your perfectly-applied makeup will stay right where it should.

Once you've cleansed apply your usual moisturiser and give it some time to absorb fully. Next, pop on a serum so that makeup has something to cling to. Try one that has oil-reducing properties or is designed to promote long-wear. We like Paula's Choice Shine Stopper Instant Matte Finish Primer

Next, apply your foundation.

Start with a thin layer, then build more coverage if needed.

"A thick layer of makeup is more prone to sliding off your face throughout the day because it just can't adhere as well to skin," says Paula.

If you have oily skin, try an absorbent shine-control product before you apply your foundation.

"This can go a long way toward keeping excess shine in check, so your makeup lasts (and looks better) longer. Also consider a matte-finish foundation for longer-lasting wear," she adds.

how to be terrifyingly on trend this Halloween

If you have left buying your Halloween costume until now, then you don't stand a chance in the shops. But if you are planning to celebrate (if that's the word) Halloween on the day and have only 20 minutes to cobble something together, fear not. This year, it's all about keeping your ghouls fictional and on trend, so you can wear something you already own.

Key, of course, is your subject matter, and what exactly constitutes the 2018 "frightgeist". We have long retired the sexy cat – the only acceptable cat is Salem from Sabrina – and while political posturing via your Melania Trump outfit is all well and woke (especially now that our Instagram feeds double as a lesson in virtue signalling), it just feels a little bit … sincere. And as for dressing up as Philip Green, avoid it. You're in danger of trivialising a serious issue in the name of banter.

You would be surprised how much mileage you can get from what is alre ady in your autumn wardrobe. That faux-fur coat? Perfect for Tonya Harding's embittered mother. A pair of gloves? That's Theo Crain from The Haunting of Hill House right there. A navy jumpsuit? Pair with a sheet mask, and you're Michael Myers.

The character: Madame Blanc from Suspiria
The costume: a voluminous orange dress
Witches abound in 2018 culture, although fans of Luca Guadagnino's Suspiria remake will be familiar with a particularly unpleasant breed who pretend to be staff members of the Helena Markos Dance Co in order to carry out nastiness devised by the top witch Madame Blanc (Tilda Swinton). Getting Blanc's look is easy, thanks to the work of the costume designer Giulia Piersanti. All you need is something scene-stealing, voluminous and monastic in orange – the kind of dress Roksanda put on her catwalk. Pair with a centre parting, and a vague air of satanic doom.

Eco-friendly Halloween makeup

For the Halloween hype, parents can 'green’ the application of makeup. Masks have proven to be somewhat dangerous for vision; therefore, we have turned more to face painting. As we are becoming increasing aware of the harmful chemicals found in everyday cosmetics and personal care products, we should step back from the merriment to inquire about the ingredients in this colourful 'goop’. What’s more, when it’s time to retire the little goblins, witches, rock stars, and princesses, those chemicals get washed away and enter our water supply.
While children run down the street with their capes and fancy dresses hemmed so they don’t trip, you’ll want them to be equally safe with the makeup they choose to apply. To allow your little goblins and witches to be eco-scary, turn to homemade, non-toxic Halloween makeup. Safe alternatives can be found in your kitchen. A small bit of avocado can be used for greens and touch of ketchup for reds. For browns, cream up a little cocoa powder or use chocolate sauce. Mixing icing sugar with water would do for whites. A teaspoon of unflavoured gelatin in a cup of warm water makes a suitable hair gel.
To create warts and wounds, mix one ounce of plain, unflavored gelatin with two tablespoons of boiled water, stir and let sit for three minutes. Next, pour the mixture onto wax paper or a similar surface. Work quickly to shape the gelatin to form your wart or scar. Add a few drops of red food colouring for a wound or green for a witch’s wart. You can be creative by including a bit of corn syrup, oatmeal, coffee grounds or even some paint brush bristles. Once the mixture has dried, adhere by using corn syrup — but first let the corn syrup dry. These are best made on the same day that the costume will be worn. Children will also enjoy learning how to prepare the final touches to their costumes.
It is worth noting that neither cosmetic products nor their ingredients are re-viewed or approved by the Food and Drug Administration. It makes one wonder what chemicals are used in the cheap Halloween cosmetics designed for children. John Bennett, the former executive director of the Sierra Club, cautions further when stating, "Companies are not required to disclose that these products may contain dangerous chemicals and parents should know what they are putting on their children’s faces. Lead, nickel and pesticides are no part of Halloween fun."
Talk to your children about the risks of chemical exposure; informed youngsters will still embrace the mystery and fun of the night.
Halloween falls shortly after Waste Reduction Week (Oct. 15-21) when recycling councils promote a lighter carbon footprint. While children are in the habit of practicing the 3Rs, Halloween with all its activities provides a great opportunity to maintain the momentum. Even placing your jack o’lantern in a corner of your yard will allow it to decompose slowly, providing an excellent example of homeschool biology.

Life in the land of popstars

When people think of Kosovo, they probably remember the war-torn country in the late 1990s. What they probably don’t think of is the fact that there is no place in Europe that can boast as many popstars per capita as Kosovo.

Before telling you who those popstars are, let me emphasise that this was not the case when I first visited this country, back in 2004. Everything was different. It was five years after the war, most roads were broken or non-existent, UN-trucks and NATO-vehicles were ubiquitous, and Kosovo wasn’t even a state yet.

Which western company would invest in a place like that? Which tourist would be so careless as to enter this area? No one. It didn’t help that Serbia – with a large country like Russia having its back – tried to block everything that would bring Kosovo further into the public eye. Serbia was actively lobbying against the participation of Kosovo in UEFA, FIFA, the Olympics, United Nations, and so on. Trying to frame Kosovo as a land full of criminals and Muslim extremists was easy, since no one could really see the real picture.

Well, some could of course. Like me for example. In 2004, I found myself in a fascinating place with long summer nights, extremely safe streets, unbelievably hospitable people, beautiful mountains, beers for just one euro, and many charming and beautiful ladies (I was 20 years old back then, and single!)

Aside from that, I experienced a very moderate religious climate. Although most people are Muslim by faith, everyone cherishes the Catholic nun that received her spiritual calling in Kosovo: Mother Teresa.

To put it simply, I found this country enchanting. After my first trip, I went back several times, and decided to migrate there in 2012, together with my wife who works in healthcare. A lot had happened in this time: Kosovo became a republic, highways were being built, international companies were exploring the country, and NATO and the UN weren’t visible anymore in most places. The thing that stayed the same was the hospitable attitude of the people, combined with a pro-Western spirit. No country in the Balkans is as pro-EU as Kosovo, and probably no people in the world is as pro-American as the Kosovars. Realising that this place has the youngest average age in Europe, you can understand a little bit better how unique this country is. And maybe why it produces so many popstars.

Currently, in the Netherlands (where I’m from), Dua Lipa (pictured above) has been at number one in the pop charts for more than 10 weeks. She is a perfect example of the positive vibe of the Kosovan capital Pristina, combined with a western attitude (she grew up partly in the UK). Another singer, also originally from Pristina, is the female with the most number 10 hits in her country: Rita Ora. And because Will Smith sings the official World Cup song with Kosovan singer Era Istrefi, currently three ladies from this place are in the pop charts. Not bad for a country with only 1.8 million inhabitants, right?

Because I want to spread the word on how sweet this country is, I manage three international websites about Kosovo. I provide information about the economy, tourism, travel tips, and stories about sports and singers. And with my local company, I advise foreigners about doing business in Kosovo. Currently, Kosovo is number 40 in the global World Bank Doing Business Index. This makes them the second best of the Balkans. Just six years ago, they were number 119. Imagine that!

If you want to live and work in Kosovo, it is important to see all the small and big developments. From new city busses with air conditioning to new highways. From the first ever gold medal at the Olympics, to Lonely Planet naming you one of the top destinations of 2018.

There are always things to worry about, like the extremely high unemployment rate. But it’s a great pleasure to live in a place like this, and even a bigger joy to see this country growing.