Like clothing, shoes and red lipstick, applying
eye makeup shouldn't come
with one-size-fits-all expectations. That's because beyond eye color and skin
tone, eye shape also plays a huge role in defining what kind of shadow and liner
look best on you. Whether you have almond, round or hooded eyes, these are the
tips and tricks you need to know in order to get the prettiest peepers
possible.
Almond Eyes
Most eyes are shaped like the ellipsoidal almond nut. To accentuate this eye
shape, the trick is to use darker shadows to contour the crease and add depth.
Begin by applying a soft shimmery beige, like Make Up For Ever Eye Shadow in
Metallic Light Beige 125, from the lash line to the brow bone. Then sweep a
matte chocolate brown, like Lancôme Color Design Eye Shadow in Fashion Label,
into the crease using a windshield-wiper motion. Blend thoroughly and apply
matte black liner that's slightly flicked out at the end
to exaggerate your naturally extended shape.
Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyes have a monolid appearance, meaning they don't have a discernible
eye fold or crease. With this eye shape, we are again aiming to create an
illusion of depth. Makeup artist Nick Barose recommends that those with hooded
eyes opt for flattening matte shadow, as shimmer may result in a puffy look. "With a medium shadow brush, apply a deeper-toned matte shadow where the crease
would be, making sure you blend away any harsh lines," he says. Try Urban Decay
Eye Shadow in Secret Service to create a soft, believable look. Finish by
smudging some of the same shadow along the lower lash line and topping it all
off with mascara to open up the eye and make it look larger.
Round Eyes
The round eye has a circular shape and is typically large in size. To soften
it and create a more exotic appearance, Barose recommends using a liner. "Play
down the roundness by only lining the upper lash lines and extending the tails
out to add length," he says. Try: L'Oréal Extra-Intense Liquid Pencil Eyeliner
in Black, which doesn't run or smudge.
Small Eyes
The trick to making petite eyes look larger is not to "make defined lines
because it will accentuate the eye's small size,"Barose says." Lines made on
the eye should be slightly blurred." Barose recommends lining around the eyes
with a kohl pencil, like YSL Dessin Du Regard Crayon Yeux Haute Tenue, focusing
more on the outer corners. Then smudge it with a Q-tip for a softer effect.
Large Eyes
Use deeper matte shades to tone down a sizable stare, since sparkly ones can
catch
light and open up the eye, says Barose. First draw a thick line on the top
lid with a black pencil, like Giorgio Armani Smooth Silk Eye Pencil in 4-black.
Then use a pencil-shaped brush to smudge it into the lash line and over the lid.
Use the same liner on the lower inner rims, connecting the top and bottom line
on the inner and outer corners to close up large eyes even more.
Droopy Eyes
Whether the result of aging or genetics, there are ways to perk up sagging
eyelids with the proper placement of your makeup. Begin by applying a light
shade of shadow on the inner corner of the lids. Next lift the eyes by sweeping
a brown shadow in the creases (try Maybelline ExpertWear Eyeshadow Single in
Nutmeg). Then apply a sweep of black liquid liner on the upper lids while
"slightly lifting the line at the tails," Barose says. By applying a light hue
to the inner corners, deepening the creases and flicking up the liner at the
ends, you are instantly creating the illusion of more lifted, more awake
eyes.
